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Save the Date 1 2 3
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The Season-PB
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Photo by Irving Solero, courtesy
of The Museum at FIT, New York
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Fashion &
Politics
On View at The Museum at FIT
in New York
July 7–November 7, 2009
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The Museum at FIT presents
Fashion & Politics, a new exhibition
in its Fashion and Textile History Gallery.
Fashion & Politics is an exploration of more
than 200 years of politics as expressed
through fashion. In this setting, the term
"politics" not only refers to the
maneuverings of government, but also
encompasses cultural change, sexual codes,
and social progress.
Fashion & Politics displays how,
throughout history, fashion has been a
medium for conveying political ideologies
and related social values by addressing such
important themes as nationalism, feminism,
and ethnic identity, as well as significant
events and subcultural movements. Featuring
more than 100 costumes, textiles, and
accessories displayed in chronological
order,
Fashion & Politics reveals the rich
history of politics in fashion.
The exhibition's introductory gallery
explores the theme of American nationalism.
Featured are a woman's costume, circa 1889,
printed with an American flag motif, as well
as Catherine Malandrino's iconic Flag Dress,
worn by numerous celebrities and socialites
to express patriotism after 9/11, and again
in response to the historic 2008
presidential campaign. Also featured is an
''IKE'' dress from the 1956 Eisenhower
campaign, a ''NIXON'' paper dress, and
memorabilia from the 2008 presidential
campaigns.
Following the introduction, the exhibition
presents an overview of fashion and related
textiles and accessories that illustrates
the interrelationship of fashion and
politics from the nineteenth century to the
present day. This begins with a look at the
role of fashion in nineteenth century
cultural and class politics. For example, a
neoclassically inspired gown, circa 1805,
conveys democratic ideals through the medium
of fashion. Also on view are examples of
late nineteenth century women's sportswear,
including a tailored bicycling ensemble and
gym suit, which were inspired by earlier
styles of reform dress such as the divided
skirt and the bloomer.
Late nineteenth and early twentieth century
''Aesthetic'' dress—a form of early
countercultural style—rejected the rigid
silhouette of Victorian fashions in favor of
looser-fitting garments. Examples of this
are shown in designs by Liberty of London
and Mariano Fortuny that emphasize health,
comfort, and a graceful appearance.
Also featured is a series of textiles that
chronicle the social and political
developments of the first half of the
twentieth century. These include a
Communist propaganda textile from 1920s
Russia, an anti-Prohibition scarf repeating
the words ''Repeal the 18th Amendment,'' and
a depression-era textile entitled Harvest
(from one of FDR's New Deal programs).
The chronology continues with visual
representations of patriotism during World
War II, which are represented by objects
that range from a pair of red, white, and
blue leather heels adorned with metal stars
to a triumphant ''Victory" scarf. A denim
"Rosie the Riveter" factory jumpsuit is on
view as an example of the functional work
wear women adopted while contributing to the
war effort. In contrast, women who enlisted
in the W.A.V.E.S. division of the U.S. Navy
were outfitted in uniforms by American
couturier Mainbocher, a designer of the
highest caliber.
The post-World War II baby-boom generation
came of age in the 1960s—a decade of youth,
technology, space exploration, and
burgeoning sexual revolution. Capturing the
mood of the era were designers such as
Pierre Cardin, Andre Courrèges, and Rudi
Gernreich, all of whom have garments on
display. Gernreich once stated that his
designs were both fashion and social
commentary—none more so than his famous
topless bathing suit, the "Monokini," which
is featured in the exhibition.
As it moves into the second half of the
twentieth century, the exhibition shows that
the use of political and social imagery was
becoming increasingly explicit in fashion.
On display are examples from Vivienne Tam’s
controversial 1995 "Mao" Collection, which
used a highly charged propagandist image—the
face of Communist leader Mao Zedong—to
comment on Chinese political history. Set
against a camouflage background, Stephen
Sprouse's subversive homage to the
Declaration of Independence alludes to the
complex relationship between government and
the military.
Present-day fashions reflect a renewed
interest in politics, sparked in large part
by the election of Barack Obama, the United
States' first African-American president.
Just as Obama’s campaign centered on such
socially charged words as "progress" and
"change," many contemporary designers are
currently using fashion as a medium for
raising political and social awareness and
promoting environmentalism. The Danish
fashion brand NOIR works with sustainable
materials and fair-trade practices to blend
luxury and sophistication with social
responsibility. On another note, dresses
from Alexandre Herchcovitch's spring 2009
collection entitled "Army of Love" were
inspired by "politically troubled,
foreign-ruled, war-torn countries." These
examples are among the many ways that
fashion continues to powerfully articulate
our concerns about social issues such as
war, global warming, and economic
uncertainty.
Fashion & Politics is organized by
Melissa Marra and Jennifer Farley, along
with Colleen Hill, Harumi Hotta, and Lynn
Weidner. The exhibition will be on view
from July 7, 2009 through November 7, 2009
in the Fashion and Textile History Gallery
at The Museum at FIT.
The Fashion and Textile History Gallery
presents biannual exhibitions examining
aspects of the past 250 years of fashion.
Exhibitions are curated exclusively from The
Museum at FIT's extensive collection.
Support for this exhibition has been
provided by the Couture Council.
A FASHION
MUSEUM
The Museum at FIT is the only museum in New
York City dedicated solely to the art of
fashion. Best known for its innovative and
award-winning exhibitions, which have been
described by Roberta Smith in The New York
Times as "ravishing," the museum has a
collection of more than 50,000 garments and
accessories dating from the eighteenth
century to the present. Like other fashion
museums, such as the Musée de la Mode, the
Mode Museum and the Museo de la Moda, The
Museum at FIT collects, conserves,
documents, exhibits, and interprets
fashion. The museum's mission is to advance
knowledge of fashion through exhibitions,
publications, and public programs. Visit
www.fitnyc.edu/museum.
The museum is part of the Fashion Institute
of Technology (FIT), a college of art and
design, business and technology educating
more than 10,000 students annually. FIT, a
college of the State University of New York
(SUNY), offers 44 majors leading to the AAS,
BFA, BS, MA, and MPS degrees. Visit
www.fitnyc.edu.
The Couture Council is a membership group of
fashion enthusiasts that helps support the
exhibitions and programs of The Museum at
FIT. The Couture Council Award for Artistry
of Fashion is given to a selected designer
at a benefit luncheon every September. For
information on the Couture Council,
call 212
217.4532 or
e-mail
couturecouncil@fitnyc.edu.
MUSEUM HOURS
Tuesday-Friday–noon-8:00 pm
Saturday–10:00 am-5:00 pm
Closed Sunday, Monday, and legal holida
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joyce@blacktiemagazine.com
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