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Corset, chemise, and petticoat circa 1903, black satin,
white cotton, blue satin, USA.
Photo by Irving Solero, Courtesy of The
Museum at FIT, New York. |
Seduction
250 Years of Sexuality in Fashion
On
View at The Museum at FIT in New York
December 9, 2008 – June 16, 2009
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Seduction is traditionally
defined as an act of temptation
and enticement, often sexual in
nature. Throughout history, men
and women have utilized
seductive clothing to enhance
physical attractiveness, as well
as to convey a sense of power
and social status. The Museum at
FIT presents
Seduction, the
first chronological survey to
explore 250 years of sexuality
in fashion.
Featuring at least seventy looks
and forty accessories,
Seduction
examines the complex
relationship between seduction
and clothing, presenting a
visual history of sexuality,
moral standards, and social
norms – all observed through the
prism of fashion. Examples
include a black satin Belle
Époque corset, red satin Manolo
Blahnik stilettos, and a
skintight black leather evening
gown by John Galliano for
Christian Dior.
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Corset, chemise, and
petticoat circa 1903,
black satin, white
cotton, blue satin, USA
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Manolo Blahnik, evening
sandals, red silk satin,
circa 1987, England |
John Galliano for
Christian Dior Boutique,
evening dress, black
lambskin leather, black
silk, 2000, France |
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“The proximity of clothing to
the body is inherently sensual,
conveyed through the strategic
interplay of exposure and
concealment,” said Colleen Hill,
curator of
Seduction. The
exhibition’s earliest example of
this is a gown from circa 1785,
in which an open-front bodice
lends an air of undress without
actually revealing the body.
Menswear from this period
emphasizes the equally important
role of seduction in male dress,
as seen in a lavishly
embroidered waistcoat.
The nineteenth century,
particularly the Victorian era,
introduced changing ideals of
beauty and the increased
distinction between male and
female dress. Dresses from this
outwardly modest era indicate
subtle displays of
sexuality. The flirtatious swing
of a crinoline, for example,
offers tantalizing glimpses of a
woman’s ankle. A sheer, white
cotton lingerie dress by Jeanne
Paquin, circa 1900, provides an
early example of outerwear
inspired by intimate apparel.
The first half of the twentieth
century saw increasingly daring
forms of seductive dress, best
exemplified by shockingly spare
flapper dresses. Sensuously
draped silk gowns, represented
in examples by Jane Régny and
Robert Piguet, appear almost as
extensions of the flesh.
A satin and velvet evening gown
by Christian Dior, circa 1955,
defines the ladylike yet highly
sexualized fashions of the
post-war era, while Cristobal
Balenciaga’s subtly revealing,
feminine cocktail dress of the
late 1950s embodies the allure
of black lace.
The cultural revolution of the
1960s led to more brazenly
sexual styles than ever before
for both men and women. Menswear
from this period is represented
by a form-fitting, wildly
patterned men’s ensemble by
Tseklenis, complete with
hip-hugging velvet trousers. A
Rudi Gernreich mini dress with
strategically placed, clear
vinyl inserts exemplifies the
radical new exposure of the
body, while a silk jersey,
halter-neck gown by Halston
defines the glamorously sexy
approach to fashion of the next
decade.
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Jane Régny, evening
dress, nude silk
satin-back crepe, circa
1931, France |
Balenciaga, cocktail
dress, black lace, black
silk, fuchsia silk,
circa 1958, France |
Halston, evening dress,
light blue silk jersey,
1972-73, USA |
By the 1980s and 1990s,
attitudes toward the display of
women’s bodies had shifted
dramatically, and female
sexuality was increasingly
considered a sign of strength.
Designers such as Jean-Paul
Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, and
Azzedine Alaïa took the concept
of underwear-as-outerwear to
daring new extremes that are
still being furthered and
refined today.
Contemporary fashion is quite
varied in its display of
sexuality. Feminine, romantic
styles by designers such as
Olivier Theyskens (formerly of
Rochas) prevail, focusing on
beautiful fabrics and
sensuousness rather than on
exposure of skin. Menswear has
also renewed its place in
seductive fashion, as seen in an
edgy, body-revealing version of
the traditional men’s suit by
Costume National. Shoes and
lingerie are prominently
featured from designers such as
Christian Louboutin and Jean Yu.
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Vivienne Westwood,
evening dress, silver
leather, silver metallic
silk, white chiffon,
1988, England |
Costume National, men’s
suit, black cotton,
blue/black polyester,
2004, Italy |
Olivier Theyskens for
Rochas, wedding gown,
white embroidered tulle,
white shellacked cotton,
Spring 2004, France
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Seduction
is on view from December 9, 2008
through June 16, 2009 in the
Fashion and Textile History
Gallery at The Museum at FIT.
The Fashion and Textile History
Gallery presents biannual
exhibitions examining aspects of
the past 250 years of
fashion. Exhibitions are curated
exclusively from The Museum at
FIT's extensive collection.
The Museum at FIT is the only
museum in New York City
dedicated solely to the art of
fashion. Best known for its
innovative and award-winning
exhibitions, which have been
described by Roberta Smith in
The New York Times
as “ravishing,” the museum has a
collection of more than 50,000
garments and accessories dating
from the 18th century to the
present. Like other fashion
museums, such as the Musée de la
Mode, the Mode Museum and the
Museo de la Moda, The Museum at
FIT collects, conserves,
documents, exhibits, and
interprets fashion. The museum’s
mission is to advance knowledge
of fashion through exhibitions,
publications, and public
programs.
Visit
www.fitnyc.edu/museum.
The museum is part of the
Fashion Institute of Technology
(FIT), a college of art and
design, business and technology
educating more than 10,000
students annually. FIT, a
college of the State University
of New York (SUNY), offers more
than 43 majors leading to the
AAS, BFA, BS, MA, and MPS
degrees.
Visit
www.fitnyc.edu.
The Couture Council is a
membership group of fashion
enthusiasts that helps support
the exhibitions and programs of
The Museum at FIT. The Couture
Council Award for Artistry of
Fashion is given to a selected
designer at a benefit luncheon
held in the Rainbow Room every
September. For information on
the Couture Council, call
212-217-4532 or e-mail
Couturecouncil@fitnyc.edu.
Tuesday - Friday – noon-8:00 pm
Saturday – 10:00 am-5:00 pm
Closed Sunday, Monday, and legal
holidays
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