LISBON ON A LARK
by Bill Boggs
Sure, Portugal is having major economic problems,
but that doesn't preclude a unique vacation
adventure in the capital city, Lisbon. The Bairro
Alto, or "old city" area, is booming as is the
adjoining chic Chiado neighborhood. I recently
spent a wonderful five nights in The Leading Small
Hotels of the World property, Bairro Alto Hotel.
This charming 5-star hotel offers friendly and most
professional service, reminding one of the intimate
experience of staying at the boutique Warwick Hotel
in New York City. A stay there includes a generous
buffet breakfast at the handsome Flores restaurant,
right off the lobby. It also is open for lunch and
dinner.
Across the small square in front of the hotel is the
beguiling Bairro Alto---a series of steep
cobblestone streets filled with very good and
reasonable restaurants, and bars, some of which
offer fado music. There are shops aplenty--but no
Gaps or other large chain stores--strictly local
items. At first it seems like you may get lost, but
one quickly acquires a sense of direction based on
the grid-like layout. As you wander about you might
see clothes hung out to dry on lines that are
fluttering just above a shop or pulsating club. The
restaurants are a treat for anyone liking the
Mediterranean diet--fresh fish and vegetables,
cooked with olive oil. If buttery sauces are your
thing, you will have to search very hard to find
them in Lisbon.
Of particular note was the Sea Me restaurant right
near the hotel. It features fusion sushi and a
bounty of whole fresh fish. It's obviously very
popular with the locals because most tables were
filled every night. Dinner here is taken a bit on
the late side. Do remember this place for excellent
fish at great value.
Adjacent to the hotel is the main street of the
Chiado area featuring outdoor cafes, trendy shops,
and even a small shopping mall. Colorful Portuguese
tiles are a popular souvenir item. Made locally,
these tiles are visible everywhere including the
exterior facades of buildings, the interior walls,
and in decorative small pieces.
One of Lisbon's hot spots is the Terrasse on the top
floor of the Bairro Alto Hotel. It is open for
drinks all day as well as lunch and dinner, with a
small menu of salads and sandwiches. The view from
there of the city
and river is spectacular.
Sightseeing opportunities abound. A worthwhile day
trip is to the ancient village of Sintra, an easy 40
minute train ride from Lisbon. On the short walk
from the train station to the center of town, one
passes some large sculptures lining the walkway.
Sintra is a World Heritage Site. I visited the
Palacio Nacional de Sintra, the only surviving royal
palace in Portugal from the Middle Ages. As it
turned out, I got there at dusk, shortly before the
place was closing and no one else was there. I
wandered about the stunning, magical palace and
captured some photos in the late afternoon light.
Walking in Lisbon involves almost constant contact
with cobblestones so pack your most shock-absorbing
walking shoes and ready yourself for immersion in
Portuguese life, culture, food and music. It is a
trip you will cherish.
Bairro Alto Hotel
www.bairroaltohotel.com
Sea Me Restaurant
www.peixariamoderna.com
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